Tucked away on the edge of Bodmin Moor lies a quiet field that holds one of Cornwall’s most mysterious relics: King Doniert’s Stone. A short walk away, deep in an ancient wooded valley, the River Fowey crashes over mossy granite in the dramatic cascade of Golitha Falls. This route ties them together in one story — part history, part nature, and wholly Cornish.
Our journey begins near St Cleer, just outside Liskeard, where two weathered stone shafts stand behind a low stone wall. One of them bears a fading Latin inscription:
“Doniert pro anima”
(“Doniert for the sake of his soul”)
It’s a rare Christian memorial to Dungarth (or Doniert), the last known King of Cornwall, who is recorded in the Welsh Annals as having drowned in 875 AD. The exact place of his death isn’t known — but standing by this lonely stone, with the moorland breeze rustling the grass, you can’t help but wonder: could it have been nearby?
From the stone, a short country path and quiet lane bring us to Draynes Wood, where a well-marked trail follows a leat path alongside the River Fowey. It’s easy walking, cool and shaded by ancient oaks and ferns. The river here is full of life — Atlantic salmon, sea trout, brown trout, and even the elusive European eel all call this water home.
Eventually, the path curves downward and the roar of Golitha Falls grows louder. These aren’t high falls, but they’re wild — tumbling down through dark boulders, thick with moss and mist. You’ll pass an old stone pump house, a reminder that this peaceful woodland was once part of Cornwall’s industrious mining landscape.
And as you watch the white water churn and crash, it’s hard not to think of Doniert once more. Could these were the very waters that swept away Cornwall’s last king?
Just a short drive (or longer loop) from Golitha, Siblyback Lake offers a contrasting finish — a peaceful 2.75-mile loop around a wide reservoir, with open skies and plenty of spots to pause and reflect. It’s ideal for families, joggers, or just anyone needing a little more breathing space. Or why not connect them all, I include a 7 mile route that takes in all three.
